Roads
Monday, October 19, 2009 at 11:45AM 
I never really thought much about roads when I was back in the States. They enabled me to get from one place to another, but I really didn't think much about their role in society. Living here in Swaziland has certainly given me a different perspective on roads and their significance within the African community.
Swaziland roads are actually very drivable for the most part, with large freeways that are in relatively good shape. Some joke that the King has spent so much on roads because he needs somewhere to drive all of his Mercedes, but whatever the reason, Swaziland has some of the best transportation in the region. That said, while the Mbabane roads and highways are generally in good condition, road quality drops off pretty quickly as you get away from major cities. Long stretches of dirt roads connect most of the rural areas, and this is where you get a glimpse of what life is really like for most Swazis.
I still find it very strange to drive down very long dirt roads. Back home, these stretches of gravel or packed earth are usually temporary, reserved for the last half mile of your trip. On my way to Ponto D'Ouro a few weeks ago, we were on a dirt road for about two hours, and after a while I developed an unsettled feeling that I couldn't quite place. Finally I realized that this was really a feeling of continual expectation.....it felt like we should be arriving at our destination at any moment, even though I knew we had several hours left in the car. My sub-conscience had been trained that dirt roads signify the end of a journey, but to most Africans, this is just part of life.
When you come upon a small village 1.5 hours into a dirt road, you get a real sense of what it is like living on the outskirts of civilization. Here, the road takes on a different function. Almost no one has cars, so the road is generally used for walking. Public transport (kombis) may come by a few times a day, but other than that, it might take hours to sell maize to the next village. In these villages, the roads also function as the local 
community center. People gather around to talk, catch up on news, or just sit under a tree and watch the passers-by. For younger kids, most of whom have probably never seen a television, the road is a source of entertainment. I'll never get tired of driving through these villages and waving to the groups of children. Most of the kids give a huge smile and wave back enthusiastically, as if I just made their afternoon. Its great.
Roads also serve as a communal rest stop. If there was a national Swazi pastime, it would be peeing on the side of the road. Its almost impossible to drive down the highway without seeing a man on the shoulder of the road relieving himself. People don't seem to be worried that they will get caught by the police... probably because the police are the largest perpetrators. Some people have even developed a roadside urination game, where you get a different amount of points depending on what you see (1 point for seeing the man, 3 points for seeing the stream... you get the point).
As I mentioned before, most of the roads are pretty good around here, but if you get a little bit off the beaten path, you start to get into pothole territory. I saw a sign the other day that said "Potholes Next 60 Kilometers" and it didn't seem that unusual. Depending on the destination, a significant portion of the drive time may be spent zig-zagging around large craters in the asphalt. A friend here told me that that there is a saying here in africa that goes "In the USA, when you see a car swerving all over the road you know that the driver is drunk... in Africa, you assume the driver is drunk if he is driving in a straight line"
Potholes aren't the only road hazards one has to watch out for. Animals on the road are actually one of most common causes of accidents in this region. Cows are by far the most common, and the most dangerous, but I've also had to swerve away from goats, sheep, dogs, chickens, and even the occasional monkey. In some areas, there are much larger things that you need to worry about (See picture below)
Reader Comments (4)
roads? where you're going you don't need roads...
jordan
sorry i have not written in a while. busy, including running the nike women's half marathon with linz---what an experience! will see your mom tonight and i hope she will update me on your current goings-on. she did mention you were thinking about going to namibia. the must see is sossusvlei, the paprika colored sand dunes. if that is all you get to, it will be the highlight of your trip. i did not go to any game parks, i don't recommend the fish river canyon, i do recommend the quiver tree forest and the area around luderitz. my only other must see is victoria falls---absolutely stunning!!!
if you drive in central/southern namibia you will find the roads in much better shape than swaziland. there is very little rain so the dirt roads don't get that many potholes. but when i was in kenya i know what you mean when you say pothole---sometimes a small size pond!!! and the saying about being drunk is true in most third world countries!!! and wandering animals are the biggest hazard!
in your travels in the hinterland do you ever get to talk to the children? one of the fascinating things i often have discussed is jet planes. they cannot understand the concept of flying in an airplane. think about it!
sounds like you are keeping busy, enjoying new friends and experiences and becoming an entrepreneur! your photos are GREAT! would love to see all of them when you return. if you need further info on namibia, send me an email.
take care!
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